By Carol Besler
Italian jewelry maestro Roberto Coin is well known for his whimsical, creative pieces, many of which have graced the red carpet and the covers of high fashion magazines. His genius has produced everything from bracelets in the form of fire breathing dragons to a diamond-studded ring sculpted to resemble the head of a roaring tiger whose tongue is set with pink sapphires. Although these quirky showstoppers often steal the spotlight, Roberto Coin has also demonstrated a deep understanding of the need for well-designed, well-crafted everyday gold jewelry — not every occasion calls for a roaring diamond tiger. Coin’s day wear tends toward the classic — it is wearable, modern, yet occasionally with traditional or vintage design codes, and always made according to the same principles of craftsmanship as the finest piece of high jewelry.
His latest signature collection is the Pois Moi, which is distinctive both for its shape and finish. The shape of most of the earrings, rings, bangles, pendants and cuff links in the collection was inspired by the rounded-off square television monitors of the 1950s. Coin’s modern take on this retro shape is both refined and avant-garde, and the collection has become an instant classic.
The collection’s other signature design code is its pattern of slight indentations or perforations in the gold. This grid of round indentations adds texture and creates subtle light return, an interesting take on the surface finish of gold. “Even if the design appears extremely linear and simple, the manufacturing technique is very complicated and requires the highest precision,” says the designer.
“After the huge success of the Appassionata collection, I was looking for something with an innovative design that could become a signature style in the same way,” says Coin. “The design is ultra-modern, with a touch of vintage, so it perfectly fits a woman of any age.
“The pattern comes from mixing different ideas,” he says, “including the texturing of the gold and the ‘pois’ (polka dot) trend seen at the Spring fashion shows. This style has never been introduced in the jewelry world. In particular, the soft, square silhouette finds its inspiration in the Italian vintage trend called ‘television shape,’ reminiscent of the old monitors of the 1950s.”
Gold is the primary element, but many pieces are set with diamonds and other gemstones. Many feature pavé diamond details. Each piece includes a hidden 0.3 carat ruby, a signature of the designer, meant to bring good luck to the wearer.
Roberto Coin feels the Pois Moi collection is unlike anything he has ever created. In fact, when asked what makes Pois Moi typically Roberto Coin, or how it compares to other pieces in his line, he replies, “It does not compare at all. Pois Moi has a design that I never thought I would create. If five or six years ago you had asked me about a design like Pois Moi, I would unfortunately have answered you that I was not interested at all. The first reason I finally designed the collection is because of the current real market situation. I knew I had to create something that is new, young, innovative and super chic, something powerfully elegant as I like to define the Pois Moi collection.”
As usual, his instincts were right on target. “The reason why it is already an icon is the huge success the collection has had with the public, which is the final arbiter, and because of the extreme elegance that only simplicity can make eternal,” he says.
Despite this renewed commitment to the everyday, accessible Pois Moi collection, Coin has not abandoned his love for the glittering showpieces that are his trademark. To the question, ‘what single item of jewelry should every woman should own?’ he replies: “A big and colored cock-
tail ring, the larger the better.”