A Watch Collector's Guide to the Rolex Submariner

There are watches. And then there’s the Rolex Submariner.

Few timepieces have earned the kind of reverence the Submariner commands. Originally built for divers, this watch has since been used in boardrooms, cocktail parties, and just about every corner of modern life. Its design hasn’t changed much over the decades, and that’s precisely the point.

What started in the 1950s as a tool watch has, over the decades, become a luxury symbol. Few  watches have managed to carry the kind of universal recognition that the Submariner does. 

History of the Submariner 

The Submariner made its debut in 1953, becoming the first watch to offer a waterproof resistance of 100 meters—a game-changer for divers who depended on their equipment to stay alive. In 1969, Rolex introduced the Submariner Date by adding a date window at 3 o’clock and the now-iconic Cyclops lens that magnifies the date for easy reading. It was also at this period that the Rolex Submariner began its transition from being a utilitarian timepiece to a status symbol when it launched its first-ever Submariner in 18k yellow gold.  

Over the years, the Submariner continued its quiet evolution. In 1979, Rolex upgraded the watch with sapphire crystal. The bidirectional bezel became unidirectional, so divers couldn’t accidentally move it the wrong way and miscalculate their remaining oxygen supply. Water resistance improved to 300 meters, extending its underwater capability even further.

2008 saw the introduction of Rolex’s proprietary Cerachrom bezel insert: virtually scratchproof, fade-resistant, and vibrantly colored for decades to come. Most recently, in 2021, Rolex enlarged the Submariner’s case size from 40mm to 41mm.

Small Details That Make It a Submariner 

The Submariner’s design language is unmistakable, and part of what makes it so universally appealing is its consistency. Rolex offers the Submariner in a variety of materials: Oystersteel, two-tone steel and gold (Rolesor), and solid 18k gold models that lean heavily into luxury territory. The Oyster case seals the watch, while the screw-down Triplock crown adds another layer of protection. The unidirectional 60-minute graduated bezel and highly legible markers are as much a design hallmark as it is a nod to its diving roots. And of course, you can’t miss the Mercedes-style hour hand, another instantly recognizable feature.

Completing the package is the three-piece Oyster bracelet, perhaps one of the most comfortable and versatile bracelets ever designed. Thanks to the Glidelock extension system, you can fine-tune the fit on the fly without any tools—whether you're wearing it over a wetsuit or adjusting for daily comfort.

Powered by an In-House Movement 

The new generation of Submariners have calibers built entirely in-house by Rolex, either the caliber 3230 (for no-date versions) or 3235 (for models with the date complication). Both deliver rock-solid reliability, outstanding accuracy, and an impressive 70-hour power reserve. Every Submariner is tested and certified as a Superlative Chronometer, which is Rolex’s own standards that exceed even the rigorous COSC certification. 

Popular Submariner Models 

Part of the Submariner’s magic lies in its versatility. Do you want the clean, balanced symmetry of a no-date model? The reference M124060 offers exactly that: a pure 41mm time-only Submariner in Oystersteel that stays true to the original’s simplicity. If you want the added practicality and visual interest of the date window at 3 o’clock, then the Submariner Date is great for daily wear.

For those who want to inject a bit more color and collectability, there’s the legendary green Submariners. The reference 16610LV, better known as the “Kermit,” was released in Baselworld 2003 to celebrate the Submariner’s 50th anniversary. There’s also the reference 126610LV—nicknamed the “Starbucks”—which pairs a green Cerachrom bezel with a black dial, as well as the reference M126613LB with its royal blue dial.   

For anyone considering a pre-owned Rolex green Submariner, these models also continue to perform extremely well on the secondary market, often commanding prices that reflect their growing collector appeal.

How Much Does a Rolex Submariner Cost?

This is where things get interesting. If you're asking how much is a Rolex Submariner at retail, expect prices to start around $9,500 depending on the model and materials. But as many collectors know, getting one directly from an authorized dealer can involve long waiting lists, especially for highly sought-after variants.

On the pre-owned market, prices fluctuate depending on condition, model rarity, and demand. If you’re wondering how much does a Rolex Submariner cost second-hand, expect to see prices that often exceed retail, particularly for discontinued or limited-production models.

Where to Buy Rolex Submariner

One of the most common questions collectors face is: Is it worth it to buy a pre-owned Rolex Submariner? Absolutely. The Submariner has a proven track record of holding—and often increasing—its value over time. Vintage models and discontinued references can sometimes appreciate considerably, making them both a passion purchase and a smart long-term investment.

Of course, buying pre-owned requires due diligence. Work with reputable and authorized retailers like Zadok Jewelers, insist on proper documentation, and if possible, have the watch authenticated by a trusted professional. A properly vetted pre-owned Rolex Submariner can be every bit as rewarding as buying new—and in some cases, even more so if you're after a rare reference.